Kota Doriya Sarees : The unique weave
Posted on July 29 2022
Tradition! Uniqueness! Comfort! All woven into this 6 yard of unstitched fabric. Kota Doriya or Kota Doria has a history as beautiful as it's weave.
Tales are that Jhala Zalim Singh of Kotah brought Mysore weavers to Kotah, in the mid 17th century, as they wove a characteristic small squared lightweight cotton fabric that resembled graph paper. Because of it's beathability it was preferred for turbans.
Since the weavers had come from Mysore, the fabric produced was called kota masuriya. It was woven on narrow 8 inch looms to make the traditional paags (turbans) and later on broader looms used for gossamer light saris. Silk was added to the cotton in a 20:80 ratio approximately to give the sari strength. This has become the usual cotton silk Kota Doria blend. Nowadays The weavers introduced silk yarn in Doria weaving in Kota and surrounding areas about 250 year ago. Today this activity is practised by the weavers of Hadoti region (Bundi, Kota and Baran districts of Rajasthan). At first the design known as a buti was small and regular but larger designs are now made according to fashion and taste.
A standard kota doriya saree is 6.5 metres long and includes a blouse piece.
A very ornate sari can take one month to make and is an heirloom piece to be treasured. A genuine Kota Doria sari will contain the GI mark woven in one corner indicating that it has been hand woven using real silver and gold thread.
Most Kota Doria or Kota Doriya saris are made on power looms in Surat and Varanasi and may be hand block printed, embroidered or hand finished in a variety of ways. The fabrics is also used as dress fabric and for stoles and dupattas.
Kota doria saree is woven on a traditional throw shuttle pit loom in such a fashion that it creates small square check pattern in the fabric, locally called as Khat by putting the cotton and silk yarns in different densities both in the warp and weft directions. In a good quality Kota doria saree, there are about 300 to 350 ‘Khat’ across the width of the fabric. Design is developed by jala/ jacquard system. Pure zari is used in border and buti woven on extra weft designing technique.
Basic texture of saree is in combination of cotton and silk yarn. Cotton yarn gives stripe effect and silk yarn gives transparent effect on the fabric.
One small check has 4 micro checks within creating an illusion in the fabric which is the special characteristic of Kota Doria Saree.
Design does not appear very prominently on the sari because of checks formed in the ground texture of the fabric
It is a light weight open textured fabric and soft to touch.
Dailybuyys is an e-platform based small business working towards popularizing Indian craft globally. We at Dailybuyys believe that the power of traditional sarees triumphs over westernized fashion. We work intricately with weavers and ensure the softest, lightest and most comfortable Kota Doriya Sarees for you. Every detail added to the saree is designed exclusively. Block prints, hand painting and embroidery are all produced at our own production house. Dailybuyys has infused exclusive detail work to Kota Doriya Sarees. Every saree has a unique aesthetic of it's own. No two saree has the exact same vibes. This makes every saree one-of-a-kind and more human to drape on.
Come, explore and Shop our range of Kota Doriya sarees on Dailybuyys.